The 15th of August always seems radiant to me
now. But then I come from Wexford in the “Sunny South East,” so perhaps my
memory is not playing tricks.
The
date marks the feast of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin into heaven. Since
we believed implicitly in Catholicism this miraculous event was no less
plausible than Original Sin or Limbo. Of more concrete importance, the 15th
of August being a national holiday, I had a choice to make – which grandparents
to spend the day with?
My paternal side would take their
usual leisurely trip down to their farm near Carnsore Point. On the 15th,
however, they would also visit Our Lady’s Island where the faithful
commemorated the feast day with hymns, rosaries and a banner-led procession.
We never marched for my grandfather
didn’t approve of such gratuitous displays of holiness, preferring his own
somber, silent faith.
The old rural Ireland was already beginning
to fade, and you could now catch the occasional Roy Orbison song leaking from
some huckster’s transistor radio and mixing uneasily with O Sacrament Most Holy or O
Salutaris Hostia.
Unfazed by such sacrilege, those
seeking relief from diverse maladies hobbled along in the wake of the
procession. Cures were not uncommon and the faithful lustily rejoiced in the afterglow
of these supernatural happenings.
Despite
such heavenly signs I usually opted to spend the day with my maternal
grandfather. He had been a widower for some time but still followed his wife’s
family tradition of driving the 50 miles to Tramore in Co. Waterford on the
15th.
He would cram as many of us
grandchildren as would fit into his old blue Morris Minor and with a roar of
the engine we would thunder off down the long and winding road. Despite his many
years of driving he had never mastered the interplay between clutch and
accelerator, and had gained the nickname, Dan Dare, in honor of a rocket-propelled,
science fiction radio star of the time.
Tramore was a wonderland back then
- its name derived from the Gaelic, Trá Mór, or Big Strand. The beach is enormous, and though we
would often emerge from the Atlantic blue from the cold, still we spent hours
frolicking amid the crashing waves.
But
it was the slot machines, the dodgems, swings and general carnival-like
atmosphere that captivated us. Though heavenly in its own way there was little
hint of devotion to any virgin - sacred or secular - in this mad, swirling
rural Las Vegas.
The
crowds rivaled Dublin’s O’Connell Street on All-Ireland Hurling Final day. Buskers
the like of Maggie Barry and The Pecker Dunne cast their spell over the hundreds
gathered around them on street corners. Con men and tricksters from the nearby
city of Waterford plied their wares and skills on unsuspecting culchies.
Everyone wore their Sunday best: the men uniformly attired in
heavy dark suits, the collars of their white shirts sportily thrown open, their
sensible ties rolled neatly and deposited next to rosary beads in jacket pockets.
Many sat on the beach like so many penguins or rolled up their pants legs and
waded in the surf and transient tide pools.
When
the shadows deepened we would tumble back into the old Morris Minor, sunburned,
and sated by bottles of Miami Orange and bars of Cadbury’s Chocolate.
Somewhere between New Ross and
Wexford Town my grandfather would begin the Sorrowful Mysteries of the Rosary,
never the Glorious or Joyful. I suppose that says something about his nature or,
perhaps, the still keenly felt loss of his wife. We would answer by rote, some of us dozing in the soft
evening light.
We
had no idea that change was so close and would soon sweep this world away. The
Beatles were already making a name for themselves in Hamburg, Martin Luther
King was on the march in Alabama, and up the road in the partitioned North of
Ireland Catholics were beginning to question their second-class citizenship.
Everything seemed permanent and in
its appointed place as we thundered on, scattering Hail Mary’s and Glorias in
our noisy wake on another glorious and joyful 15th of August.