Every year immediately after St. Patrick floats off on an
ocean of beer I head for the Caribbean.
It doesn’t cost much as long as you book ahead and don’t fly
on weekends. The price of living down
there is also reasonable especially if you stay away from tourist traps and the
playgrounds of the 1%.
Right-wingers can even savor the considerable fruits of
socialism in Cuba. At one of the top Afro-Jazz Club in Havana when paying for a
couple of Mojitos I was informed that my admission charge of $10 had covered my
tab.
But there’s another reason to go down the islands – they’re
so Irish.
For those who arrived voluntarily down the centuries what a
paradise it must have seemed – balmy waters, silver sands, with exotic fruits
and vegetables there for the picking. Oh yeah, mon, there’s nothing quite like
island living!
Vitamin starved Northern Europeans were convinced that limes
and lemons were miracle fruits for they cured so many diseases. The wonders of
Vitamin C!
Unfortunately, many Irish arrived in chains to work the
sugarcane fields of Barbados and other island hellholes.
Their fate was terrible and, given the working and living conditions,
inevitable. Many died in the first years of servitude. And yet there are
inspirational stories of escape from this human bondage.
I was reminded of these recently while at a post-St.
Patrick’s Day party on a floating bar off the island of Bequia. The green was flying,
the rum was flowing, and the color of your skin unimportant – we were all
Irish.
The talk soon turned to the nearby island of St. Vincent’s,
a legendary safe haven for pirates.
Roughly 100 miles from Barbados across a stretch of beautiful,
but often turbulent, water St. Vincent’s was a magnet for both black and white slaves.
However, while visiting Barbados some years back I learned
about some of the obstacles to escape.
The sheer heat - while toiling from dawn to dusk in the
sugarcane fields - sapped the spirit of so many.
Even as a relatively pampered visitor this heat could be
debilitating – you quickly learn the value of a siesta. Rise at 6am, go about
your business, nap from 1 to 3pm then take to the streets or beach again in the
cool of the evening.
Irish slaves soon gained the name Red Legs - plantation
owners did not provide sunscreen.
Nor was there much chance of stealing or building a boat for
escape; the shores were so well patrolled.
The only hope was to find discarded planks or malleable branches
from trees, hide them in caves or bury them in the sand. Then steal rope, paddles
and material for a rudimentary sail; water also had to be stored and some small
portion of one’s daily food allotment.
Wait for a moonless night with calm waters. Lash together a raft
then row quietly, but with determination, for it was essential to be beyond the
horizon by dawn.
At sea, the problems of sun, thirst, sudden squalls, and
interception by unfriendly craft were ever present.
Who knows how many escapees died on those voyages? But some did
make it to the pirate camps where they were welcomed – probably because of
their legendary bravery when attacking English vessels. Revenge, no doubt,
played a part.
Back at the party on the floating bar I recalled my visit to
Barbados. It’s a beautiful island but there’s a brooding quality to the
countryside – not unlike the feeling you get when you look up at a Mayo
mountain and see the remains of abandoned cabins.
It’s only then that you grasp in some superficial way the fate
of the people who dealt with The Great Hunger.
Likewise a visit to the undeveloped East coast of Barbados
provides some understanding of the savagery of Caribbean slavery.
I have to say I identified far more with the pirate islands
of St. Vincent and Bequia where our people found acceptance and blended in with
the oppressed Afro-Caribbean culture.
And so I bellied up to the swaying bar, melded in with these
island folk proudly wearing their green. I had found my people and ordered
another rum punch.