Let me speak of that noblest of professions – the bartender.
Now one could write tomes on the gentlemen keepers of the sacred stick – the
exploits of Steve Duggan and Malachy McCourt spring to mind, but when it comes
to tough love, lady bartenders leave them in the dust!
I
will refrain from mentioning any member of the Irish-American community, since
too many know where the bodies are buried; instead I will dwell on the chutzpah
and heroics of a Pole, a Finn, and an African-American, three ladies who took
no nonsense from their clientele.
The
Polish woman ran a saloon on the corner of First and First, now owned by that
infamous Dubliner, Terry Dunne. Known simply as Ma’am, she was on the wintry
side of 70; yet she had your measure taken in the time it took you to shuffle from
the door to the bare-bones bar. Nor did she offer a word of greeting - or
gratitude - as you forked over your three bucks for a Heineken.
She
employed an alcoholic Polish accordionist who played Chopin with much feeling.
She demanded silence for these performances and all banter halted as he labored
over his melancholic sonatas.
One
night Milan, a fearsome Ukrainian of quicksilver temperament, expressed his
homophobic opinion of Chopin and Poles in general.
Without
a flicker of emotion Ma’am leveled him with a baseball bat. Blood spurted from
Milan’s bald pate while we drinkers scattered to the four walls. Whereupon
Ma’am called a round on the house and nodded her approval as the accordionist
abandoned his beloved Chopin for a wild Gypsy Mazurka.
The
Finnish lady had to be close to 90. At least I assume that was her nationality
for she presided over The Finland Bar on 86th Street. I never saw
her commit any act of violence, although her Louisville slugger nestled snugly
next to the antediluvian cash register.
She
was lively, opinionated, and preferred that gentlemen greet her with one word -
“Wodka!” One could wave a hundred-dollar bill while soliciting a Budweiser, and
it would get you nowhere. No, “wodka” ruled, and she poured shots so liberal
men were known to shake hands with themselves after a couple. Women, as a rule,
did not frequent this saloon.
A
big silent hulking fellow sat in the corner; he was variously described as her
son, or lover. One night an inebriated companion of mine ventured to suggest
that he might be both. A frigid silence descended upon the room. The Finnish
lady glared at us with such cold disdain that we promptly downed our “wodkas”
and skipped to the door - some steps ahead of the big hulking fellow.
I was furious at my companion, for
good bars are hard to come by and liberal shots even rarer, but perhaps it’s
just as well for my liver is pickled enough as it is.
There
are some who would say that Maria, the bartender at the Kiwi on East 9th
Street, was not even a woman, but no one ever suggested that this tall, willowy
transvestite was not a lady. She could converse on any subject, social,
political or philosophical with clarity, erudition and grace. She was also
quite an impressive sight for she favored six inch heels and towered above all
and sundry.
One
evening a Hells Angel of much girth and little discretion expressed the view
that he would prefer to be served by a “real woman.” In one fell swoop, Maria
reached down and came up swinging with a spike heel. No blood spurted as she
struck the Angel right between the eyes; nonetheless, this hirsute gentleman
burst into tears claiming that his mother had, just that very morning, threatened
to throw him out of house and home if he got in another fight.
Ah
yes, those were the days when men were men, and women occasionally were too.
It’s probably safe to say, they don’t make lady bartenders like they used to.
Still, let us raise a glass to the
sisterhood of the stick – when the world has turned its back on you, they’ll still
slip you a drink and a knowing wink – just remember to behave yourself in their
sacred presence.
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