I’ve always loved Belfast - a city with some serious soul.
Then again, I had a novel introduction. My uncle took me
there as a boy to meet the Rev. Ian Paisley. Recently home from missionary work
on The Philippine Islands Fr. Jim Hughes was convinced that the Rev. Ian was
“the reincarnation of St. Paul” and just needed a “little change in direction.”
I kid you not!
A hair-raising rural encounter with the B Specials put a
crimp in Fr. Jim’s style, but we did drive through East Belfast on a Sunday
morning while our Protestant brethren raised their voices in praise of the
Lord. This outpouring of devotion left an indelible impression on my papist
soul.
Soon thereafter I became a fan of the Belfast beat group,
Them. Van Morrison’s classic Astral Weeks sealed my musical deal with the city.
I also visited during the dark days of Bobby Sands hunger strike;
even then I was struck by the sheer humanity of the people.
I return every couple of years now and am always amazed at
Belfast’s continuing strides towards inclusiveness. Walk out any evening into
the crowded downtown streets, enter The Crown, Kelly’s Cellars, or any of the
great local pubs and restaurants and you’d be forgiven for wondering, “Was it
all just a bad dream?”
For Belfast is a city busy putting its past in the rear view
mirror.
I take a group of North Americans to Ireland every year,
most of them listeners to Celtic Crush on SiriusXM. Like my three-hour radio show
I focus on history, politics, music and how they ineffably intertwine.
Belfast is always a highlight for it epitomizes William
Faulkner’s line, “the past is never dead. It’s not even past.”
Instead of shunning Belfast’s recent history Coiste deals
with it in a way that could well pay dividends for other divided cities like
Jerusalem or Beiruit. This enterprising organization puts together various
political/historical excursions, but my favorite is the Joined Falls/Shankill Tour.
This is a unique opportunity to be taken through Republican
and Loyalist areas by ex-combatants. This year our guides were Robert “Dinker”
McClenaghan and Noel Large.
We began at The Spectrum, a vibrant community center in the
Unionist Shankill Road area. It’s always important to remember that there is a
wide variance of views in both Loyalist and Republican circles, likewise with
our guides.
Noel Large is an intense and powerful presence, and a most
interesting person in a city teeming with characters. He is proud of his native
streets and heritage but, unlike the caricature of the dour Ulsterman, he wears
his heart on his sleeve, and gave our busload of travelers a rare and
passionate view into the Loyalist soul.
Dinker, as he is affectionately known, is no less an ardent
spokesman for his Republican streets and point of view – remember that the
Shankill and Falls are mere blocks from each other.
Republicans, however, have more experience in dealing with
the outside world, and let’s face it: North Americans in general are more
disposed towards their point of view. Which was why it was a riveting
experience to share a bus ride with these two 60-year old ex-combatants who, to
put it mildly, would not have been well disposed to each other not all that
long ago.
Both had served long prison sentences for desperate deeds,
and had given much thought to what they had done, and the reasons they had
taken up arms in the first place.
The most touching aspect was the rough friendship they had
carved out, for who could understand their shared experiences better than each
other.
Towards the end Noel said something riveting, to the effect
that “we should never have been fighting each other, but rather those who
divided us.”
It was a moment of truth for two working class Belfast men looking
back at a troubled past, both determined to make the present and future better
for their people.
When you go to Belfast make sure you visit the Spectrum
Centre on The Shankill as well as An Cultúrlann McAdam Ó Fiaich on The Falls.
There’s truth and revelation to be found on both sides of a once impregnable
divide.
http://www.culturlann.ie/en/welcome/